LONDON FASHION WEEK’S KEY TRENDS FOR AW20
By Sara Darling
Fashion is cyclical- trends are recycled and it’s hard to come up with something that is completely new. That is, unless you are deliberately re-jigging something old and transforming it with a new lease of life.
Let’s be honest, fashion is never going to reinvent the wheel, but the designers showing at London Fashion Week for AW20 were definitely taking the current environment and sustainability crisis into consideration with their collections.
Images: ToBeFrank x Molyneaux
ToBeFrank x Molyneaux is a brand-new collaboration, with Mother Earth at its core. Promising a collection that is 90 percent sustainable, it uses no virgin materials, and focuses on jerseys, knits, denim and leather that have all been developed from sustainable fabrics. New sources such as recycled fibre, vegetable dyed cotton, vegetable leather, and compressed apple juice waste have been developed, using state-of-the-art factories in Turkey that use zero water technology washing, and the results are pretty cool!
Left to right: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Richard Quinn, The Shrimps
◇B R I T I S H H E R I T A G E◇
The humble Argyle sweater has been around for decades, and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi mashed up the knit with micro miniskirts for party look (created sustainably in collaboration with British woollen mills, using recycled dead stock destined for landfill,natch). Whereas Riccardo Tisci for Burberry added oversized rugby shirts and quilted anoraks, to his premier winter collection.
The Shrimps collection celebrated all things royal, and reimagined the Queen’s wardrobe with its signature faux fur coats. Using hot pinks, checks and a selection of gowns, traditional boundaries may have been pushed, but heritage fabrics reigned.
British photographer, Cecil Beaton was the inspiration for the Erdem show, and the humble garden rose was the central focus; used on prim tea dresses, pleated frocks, or more dressy silver brocade suits or gowns. Coupled with a cardigan, the collection wouldn’t have looked out of place on Beaton’s Bright Young Things in the 1920s and '30s.
Richard Quinn’s AW20 collection was dubbed “Working-class couture” and was a salute to Savile Row. Completely adorned, Pearly Kings and Queens dominated the procession, wearing signature Richard Quinn stocking masks, and although the overall effect was full on, the craftsmanship and details are immaculate in small doses. “God save the Quinn” indeed!
Left to right: Ashley Williams, Marques D’Almeida
◇ Q U I R K Y C O O L ◇
Ashley Williams took inspiration from the iconic stars of the silver screen- from many different genres! Frills, logos, harlequin polka dots and goth-styles were marched out on a wide range of models- some sporting full on face-paint for authentic cartoon effect.
Christopher Kane used the humble triangle as his inspiration. As the most infallible symbol in nature, the points of the triangle represent man, woman and nature, which could be seen in his sassy tailoring. Notably wearable was his double-breasted trouser suit and jewel bib dress. The chain-mail bodysuits would suit someone with a lot more confidence!
You can’t deny that British stalwart, Pam Hogg deserves a mention in the quirky cool bracket. Dedicating her show to legendary cobbler Terry de Havilland who has recently passed, her menagerie of models sashayed down the catwalk in a range of theatrical onesies, accompanied with gothic glamour beauty looks dedicated to “all the outsiders”.
Avoiding the eighties, but taking the best bits from the 90s and the 70s, the Marques D'Almeida collection celebrated freedom and youth culture. Mashing up grunge with acid-wash denim, neon brights and slip dresses, the artist Paul Anderson Morrow’s rainbow print was used to add a pop of psychedelia. 70s flares were paired with tight knits, platform boots and there was even a goat skin coat!
Left to right: Halpern, Molly Goddard
◇ F L O U N C Y F R O C K S ◇
The big dress is always a party favourite, and expects to be bombarded come Christmas time.
At Halpern, haute couture was referenced for a seventies inspired show at the Old Bailey. The rebellious women will love the jumpsuit and kaftan shapes in sequins all with a touch of Studio 54. This season features an abstract lilly print.
Molly Goddard is the princess of the party frock, and this season saw her signature tulle dresses layered with fair isle cardigans and brothel creepers. For the less extravagant, there were more wearable options such as vintage-inspired jumpers, checked coats and floral skirts, distributing embroidery and embellished garden pansies, daisies and roses everywhere.
Left to right: Roland Mouret, Victoria Beckham
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If a woman wants to make an impression, she needs to wear a suit. Roland Mouret took this on board, and showcased a selection of Eighties power dressing that Margaret Thatcher would have been proud of! Padded shoulders, pussy bows and pinstripes were the backbone of his collection, and showed he meant business.
Rejina Pyo designs clothes that women actually wear, and AW20 saw a backdrop of browns, beige and cream, pepped up by slick black leather and a shot of ice blue and gold, in a collection that would suit any boardroom.
Even Victoria Beckham, who normally plays it safe, empowered her models with elegant genderless tailoring, featuring extreme layering of textures and three-dimensionality. Her tweed kilts, pinafores and velvet culottes will no doubt be snapped up by fans.
From left to right: Simone Rocha, JW Anderson, Antonia Nae
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While Simone Rocha's AW20 collection was based on John Millington Synge's play 'Riders To The Sea', it was more upbeat than the tragic story suggests. Of course there were pearls and lace to represent widowhood and mourning, but there was an unparalleled sense of glamour, which Rocha used to represent “the female gaze of modern femininity”.
In contrast, the MM6 collection from Maison Margiela, was high octane rock chick. The faux fur, zebra-inspired print (in different hues) and leather were the staples of the show, and used to dramatic effect. Coupled with tight, glittery knitted dresses, distressed denim jeans, leather shirts, and some pretty stand-out sunglasses, this brings a new meaning to rock n roll.
Whereas JW Anderson’s show was inspired by his connection with Ireland, and the humble pint of Guinness. Frothy fabrics billowed down the catwalk in a “Nouveau Chic” presentation of bulbous layered gowns and capes for a progressive take on traditional. Using fuzzy shimmering knits to represent the cat who has her cream, the architectural designs provided volume and elegance, but were somehow in proportion.
Newbie, Antonia Nae, has only been around since 2016, and has created a ready to wear and couture label that focuses on the beauty of fabric manipulation. Her gowns are dramatic and she specialises in juxtaposing textures such as lace and leather- resulting in wearable art.